Don’t you need special pots and pans for induction stoves? Would a cast iron skillet work on one of those? Or a standard non stick pan?
Good call asking. It just clicked that my glass pots wouldn’t work. I mean, of course they wouldn’t, but I wouldn’t think of them while stove shopping because I only rarely use them.
5 am rambling about why I have glass pots: I keep them around for a friend that keeps kosher and visits. My non-Jewish understanding is that different folks keep kosher differently based on different traditions. Her tradition is that glass doesn’t pick up meat, dairy, or non-kosherness, so the same pot can be used for meat, dairy, or non-kosher meals, with washing in between of course.
Huh interesting. I didn’t know that.
Yeah of course those kind of pans work fine. You don’t need anything special for induction. It’s standard for a lot of the country.
Old pots which don’t have enough iron or nickel in them for a magnet to stick to the bottom won’t get hot on an induction stove.
Cast iron works fine, but that cheap aluminum pot you bought as a student 20 years ago won’t work.
Yes, you can test with a magnet. If it doesn’t react, it won’t work. Aluminium for instance doesn’t work.
I don’t know why you were down voted and the user below gave misinformation. I bought a non stick pan before without noticing it wouldn’t work with my induction. Now I bring a magnet when choosing a pan.
Aluminium for instance doesn’t work.
A lot of cheap pans I’ve seen at (AU) Kmart, Big W, Ikea etc are aluminum with a teflon-esque coating, but with a carbon-steel circle attached to the bottom that makes it induction compatible.
It was aldi and not too cheap. But it was a while ago when I induction wasn’t common.
Cast iron would work, though you shouldn’t blast the heat on it immediately because of how brittle they are and how unevenly they heat. You can find plenty of pictures online of people just chucking a room temp cast iron on at max heat and splitting them right down the middle. They get plenty hot when preheated at around the medium setting on most ranges, and if you need more you can blast it after it’s warmed up in like 2-3 minutes.
So, you should start my setting the stove to low and gradually heat it up?
If you want to completely mitigate the risk, then yeah it’s ideal to start on low and progressively ratchet the heat up. Personally, I’ve just left it at medium and then cranked it up two notches on the dial after a few minutes. I’ve really never used the maximum heat for anything other than boiling water on my range, since just over medium is more than hot enough for a lovely sear. If the coil is significantly smaller than the bottom of the pan, I’d be much more careful and start on low no matter what pan I’m using just to reduce the risk of warping.
Would a cast iron skillet work on one of those?
Definitely, you just need pans with a ferromagnetic bottom, so cast iron works very well.
The outer material doesn’t matter - only the base. Many cheap induction-compatible pans are made mostly of aluminum with a non-stick coating, but containing a layer of ferromagnetic material in the base that will heat up on an induction stove.
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Iron is OK.
Copper and aluminum are forbidden, they will overload an induction stove, being too good conductors. Wrapping food in aluminum foil is massively forbidden, it will melt. Purely ceramic dishes are useless since they don’t conduct current at all. Ceramic dishes with a specially designed induction bottom can be used.
In case of stainless steel, I had to look it up, and Wikipedia says “some stainless steels”.
The theoretic article on induction cooking clears it up somewhat: it’s about resistance / conductance, not ferromagnetism. All mainstream kinds of stainless steel have tens of times more resistance than copper, so all mainstream stainless steel should be OK.
For high efficiency there should be as little electrical resistance in the coil and as much as possible in the pan so that most of the heat is developed in the pan.
I’ve removed this post due to misinformation. Copper and aluminum pots on an induction stove arent forbidden; they just don’t get hot on an induction stove.
Thanks for correcting.
There seems to be contradictory information on the subject.
Aluminum foil is proven to melt on induction cookers (see attached photo). But that’s because foil is thin.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Foil_on_induction_cooktop.jpg
A photo I suggest taking a look at: induction heater burning aluminum foil. Taken from the publication “Practical Course on School Experiments for Future Physics teachers”.
…as for thick aluminum cookware, or copper cookware, I was not implying that they would overheat themselves, I was implying that the induction cooker would overheat its coil attempting to work with them, because they conduct current better than the coil. But perhaps that’s prevented by protection circuits or a process I haven’t taken into account. I can’t test since I don’t have an induction cooker at home.
EM-fields induce current in copper and aluminum perfectly fine, no ferromagnetism is needed. You can build a coreless transformer for example, ordinary tranformers simply benefit from having a core (the core is separated into thin layers to reduce heating). Copper and aluminum simply conduct current very well, so appreciable heat does not appear at everyday levels of field strength and current. Steel and cast iron, having considerable resistance, heat up in a similar field, conducting similar amounts of current. There’s a potential gap in my understanding of the process, however - perhaps I’m failing to take into account the frequency of a cooking field in an induction cooker. The frequency determines whether current wants to travel in the depth of the conductor or on the surface of the conductor.
Simple experiments that I can recommend:
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take a circuar magnet and let it drop along a copper pipe -> you will observe that it drops slowly, braking itself by inducing current in copper
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spin a rotor with magnets next to a plate of copper -> you will observe mechanical resistance to spinning, because it induces current in copper
I can also recommend an interesting Wikipedia article: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddy_current
Quoting from the article (emphasis mine):
For example, a nearby conductive surface will exert a drag force on a moving magnet that opposes its motion, due to eddy currents induced in the surface by the moving magnetic field. This effect is employed in eddy current brakes which are used to stop rotating power tools quickly when they are turned off. The current flowing through the resistance of the conductor also dissipates energy as heat in the material. Thus eddy currents are a cause of energy loss in alternating current (AC) inductors, transformers, electric motors and generators, and other AC machinery, requiring special construction such as laminated magnetic cores or ferrite cores to minimize them. Eddy currents are also used to heat objects in induction heating furnaces and equipment, and to detect cracks and flaws in metal parts using eddy-current testing instruments.
I also recommend this source and will quote them below:
Induction heating utilizes electromagnetic fields to heat conductive materials without any direct contact. Aluminum, although non-magnetic, heats effectively because of its high electrical conductivity. However, it produces weaker eddy currents in comparison to ferrous metals.
This stuff would matter if induction stoves just had a raw component and no cooling or temperatue sensor or pot presence sensor. They’re an engineered product which doesn’t fail in the same way that the raw components do without any of that.
After thinking about this for a while… I can’t say I agree with that.
Sensors can fail. Some companies may even produce sub-standard sensors or faulty logic. I think it’s OK to tell people that copper and aluminum aren’t allowed on an induction top, and the makers of induction tops seem to think similarly, they just add a sentence “unless equipped with a magnetic base”.
Let’s take a manual of a randomly chosen induction cooker:
https://www.caple.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/C850I-Instruction-manual-May-2017.pdf
Let’s examine what it says:
Cookware made from the following materials is not suitable: pure stainless steel, aluminum or copper without a magnetic base, glass, wood, porcelain, ceramic, and earthenware
On one hand, an aluminum pot won’t heat. On the other hand, aluminum foil will melt, or if placed somewhat closer, catch fire. I think I should be allowed to claim that “aluminum is forbidden” on induction tops and add that “aluminum foil is extra forbidden”.
Will you kindly restore my post? People can downvote or argue it if they don’t like my interpretation, but I don’t think it’s misinformation. It explains some things they might not even know about. I would be sad if people think that ferromagnetism is required for induction heating to happen. It would be nice if people understood how their cooker accomplishes heating in more depth than “if a magnet sticks, it’s OK”.
That manual entry is different from the danger case; it’s just telling you that the stove won’t do anything, which is what ones I’ve actually encountered do: they have a sensor which detects a non-ferromagnetic material, and keeps the stove from activating.
Sure stuff can fail. But designed right, it means that the stove breaks, not that it puts people in danger.
This is a bunch of scaremongering.
This is a bunch of scaremongering.
Then you should also remove my post about it being possible to blow out a wall with a gas stove. It might also scare people. It’s here, I kindly request that you review it:
https://slrpnk.net/comment/19887409
Moderation practises should be consistent, in my opinion.
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I’d consider the health benefits a bigger benefit than the energy savings. Less chance of getting asthma and/or cancer is a pretty big boon.
And just yesterday people were arguing with me here, on lemmy, that induction is too expensive. There are literally single plate cook tops for like $50! And how expensive do you think the cancer will be?
I picked up a used/open-box Duxtop induction burner to avoid using my gas stove, and it works amazingly well. The only downside is that most countertop induction burners have relatively small coil sizes, so with bigger pans, like my 12" cast iron frying pan, the outer part of the pan doesn’t get hot enough to brown things.
As a solution, I’m planning to pair the induction cooktop with a separate infrared burner that has a much larger burner size for my bigger pans (and for my older pots that aren’t compatible with the induction).
Til cast iron is compatible with induction heating.
I mean I should’ve figured that out by now, but glad I know now. Thanks homie!
No prob ^^
It’s also a safety upgrade, as the risk of fires is much diminished.
As an added benefit besides the environmental ones - you can’t blow out a wall and collapse a house with careless use of an induction cooker. :)
That’s true. I’ve watched Fight Club.
All it takes is someone not knowing how to handle a grease fire, and you can make one of those on anything called a stove.
I don’t know what you’re trying to convey with this.
Also, very unlikely. You need a source of ignition to start a fire. So unless someone is letting grease get so hot that it is ignitable, then lighting a cigarette within inches of the, again, very hot grease. Then the likelihood of starting a grease fire with an induction cooktop is near zero.
Those batteries can be used to provide backup power when the grid goes down.
https://electrek.co/2024/02/29/induction-ovens-with-big-batteries-solve-lots-of-problems/
I did not know this exists and I love the idea. However, the author clearly never has used an induction stove: “Because of this, they are more efficient than typical electric resistance stoves and also safer because the surface of the oven doesn’t get very hot.”
I actually thought both of those points were true.
Nope. Had induction. The ceramic gets just as hot, because you heat up the metal on top and the metal is touching the ceramic, thus it gets hot. Enough to cause severe burns.
Sounds like you didn’t have induction but had a normal flat top stove with electric burners.
Your mom says otherwise.
I’m would not trust her to know the difference since she’s never had one.
I have induction and this is certainly true. The surface only gets heated by the pot on top. So only after a long time does it get very hot and never even close to a regular electric stove.
Okay, go ahead and touch it, if it does not get “very hot”.
Wanna make a bet that I can boil some water and safely touch (for a short time) the stove top right after? I’m willing to bet a lot of money. 'cause I’ve done it. And because of physics.
The pot is 100 °C (because of physics), which is heating the glass. Glass is not as conductive as metal, so it’s not as dangerous to touch. Touching a pot of boiling water is not pleasant, but not very dangerous if you immediately remove your hand, and touching the stove is even less dangerous than that. Completely different ball game to vitroceramic resistive heating which heats the stove itself well above boiling temperatures.
Big lol. Compares boiling water to frying. The author of the article was generally speaking. And by generally they were saying the surface does not get very hot. Yes. It does not get 800°C. But it still can and will get to 300°C. Is it less? Yes. Is it still fucking hot and causing severe burns? YES.
Stop saying it is safe, because that causes people to believe this and get harmed for no fucking reason.
That’s literally one of the advantages of induction over resistive. Resistive heat an element, that heats the pot. Inductive use a magnetic field to induce a current in the pot. That electric current then heats the pot directly.
The only heat in the stovetop is either bleed back from the pot, or resistive losses, which are quite low.
Again, go ahead and touch the surface after cooking.
The battery induction stoves are pretty neat. You can plug them into a normal 120v outlet instead of needing to rewire. Plus they can be battery backups in the event of power outages.
Also some newer ones have temp sensors so you can keep a thing at the exact temp you need.
I saw one with magnetic removable knobs to make cleaning easier.
Also the outlet bits make installs drop-in for anyone, no electrician needed.
Also some newer ones have temp sensors so you can keep a thing at the exact temp you need.
I swear by induction cooking (for both soapmaking and food) for this reason - precise temperature control, even low temperatures that aren’t even possible to get on a gas stove.
- Setting the heater to exactly 40C means you can melt chocolate reliably, without the hassle of a bain marie
- At 60C you can combine cetostearyl alcohol and vegetable oil for moisturizer without boiling off your glycerine
- At 80C you can cook soap to trace without overcooking it and making it lumpy
- At 100C you can evaporate moisture and reduce a sauce with minimal effect on other ingredients
- At 100-160C you can cook a sugar syrup to a precisely desired level of concentration (as the boiling point goes up as the concentration increases) for making different types of candy
Just a shame how expensive they are. Copper stoves (the ones that won the contract in the article) start at $5,999. They’re a small start-up without economy of scale on their side, but that still just seems wildly overpriced for an induction stove with a lithium battery stuck inside.
To put that price in perspective, an electric convection toaster oven that can handle most oven needs can be had for $150 to $250, and a high quality countertop induction cooktop can be had for $116 (or less used), both of which run on standard 120v outlets.
Standard 240v induction ovens start at around $850.
Still probably cheaper than retrofitting a building with gas pipes 🤷♂️
Induction oven? How does that work? Is it better than a classic electric oven, does it ‘just’ heat up faster?
Sorry, I guess I meant stove, not oven. I tend to conflate to the two. I think all induction stoves have standard heating element ovens.
How long can you run them before they run out of juice, though? I’m not sure I’d want to have “range” (pun intended) anxiety making Thanksgiving dinner.
https://copperhome.com/products/charlie
This one, as an example, has a 5 kWh battery. Having seen it in action it’ll run itself for several hours unplugged. Pretty much indefinitely if charging.
Remember, while induction ranges typically have high power ratings (10+ kW), they aren’t actually running the whole time. They use a decent amount of power for the initial heat up, or if youre running all of the burners on high trying to boil several large pots of water, but realistically that’s not how you use a range.
Once the oven is up to temperature, it just kinda oscillates on and off, using comparatively little energy. Induction burners rarely run on full power because if you’ve ever cooked with induction you know you’ll burn…everything… on high - they can really dump heat into a pan.
Actively cooking a big dinner with multiple burners, you may average about 2 kW. With 1 kW coming in from the wall, that gives you about 5 hours of sustained peak cook time.
A 5 kW peak stovetop is already more power than anyone can reasonably use with the amount of space available on a standard stove. Literally the only useful thing you can do at full power is bring water to a boil, because no actual cooking can happen at full power unless your diet is carbonized food. I have a 3.5 kW stovetop and it’s perfectly adequate.
After the first 15-20 minutes of cooking (bringing water to a boil while preparing some onions/garlic/sauce/seasonings) it gets very hard to keep using 1 kW. By that point you’ll be leaving things on medium heat at most. I can’t think of a single home-cooked meal that would require continuously drawing a full 2 kW from the stove for multiple hours, that’s a truly crazy amount of energy. Even an oven at full blast won’t use anywhere near 2 kW once it has reached 250 °C.
We have a glass top 240v resistive heating range and it won’t run all 5 burners on high. The rear is a dual with burner (like for a rectangle skillet). I’m not sure you can run that and the full size burner on high at the same time. One of them won’t heat up.
However the number of times of run into this in 10 years is maybe 3. It’s not really a problem and pretty easy to stagger things and simmer or keep parts of a meal warm in an oven or toaster oven.
You know, I’m not sure.
But “range” anxiety gave me a giggle so thanks for that.
How long can you run them before they run out of juice, though?
They run by either an electrical outlet or by battery. Another article stated the battery backup for its induction oven was one hour. Hardly worth being a feature.
One hour of being able to cook in the midst of a 12+ hour blackout can make a world of difference to hungry people.
Currently they have gas stoves that can cook for 12+ hours of a 12+ hour blackout…
I wouldn’t assume the pumps moving that gas would keep working for an extended outage. If an outage lasts that long, it’s usually over a big area.
In the last 15 years, my electricity has been out for 10+ DAYS three different times. Gas doesn’t stop.
In fact, 2 out of 3 homes in the neighborhood have Kohler style natural gas whole house generators.
There’s plenty of reasons to hate gas, but that ain’t one.
They should’ve run the electricity wires next to the gas wires, i.e. buried.
Surely someone’s got an example of natural gas service failing during an electric outage?
The reason you were down voted was in the first paragraph of the article - including breakdowns that can last for months at a time
Most of the natural gas distribution network is natural gas powered, and what electric equipment exists generally has backup electrical generation equipment. It’s designed to operate independently of the electric grid, and is far more reliable.
Congratulations! Now run the piping for gas to every apartment in a major city. Do it for the same budget as battery induction cooktops. Then we’ll talk.
however capacity and wear they have? Battery science is pretty curved.
Will they have good enough cookware? And not thin aluminum dollar store junk without the steel insert?
Induction burners are of limited utility in some scenarios like restaurants or with certain cuisines (someone else mentioned woks) but 99.9% of residential needs are readily met with an induction burner. In fact, were I live electric coil stoves are the norm in homes anyway and induction is generally considered an improvement over those.
Even if you have a gas stove, most people aren’t going to have one that puts out the amount of BTUs to really make traditional wok cooking work anyway, so it’s a bit of a non-issue on at least that front. If I was going to bust out a wok and start trying to nail Chinese food, I’d skip right past my rapid-boil burner and go to one of the portable propane stoves they sell in Asian supermarkets. In the US, at least, I wouldn’t expect to see a stove that can deliver that sort of heat output (aside from something custom made) anymore than I would expect an off the shelf oven to be able to replicate the temps in the pizza oven at a pizzeria.
Their utility isn’t limited. Restaurant chefs love them.
We just don’t have the infra. Buildings and backbone would need retrofits.
There is a slight limitation on what kind of cookware you can use on them. The pots and pans have to be ferromagnetic. Aluminium cookware doesn’t work and it looks like stainless can be hit or miss depending on how it’s made. It’s not a big issue unless most of your cookware doesn’t work on it.
Do restaurants use a lot of cheap aluminum crap, or prefer shit that will last?
Also: retrofits for existing ones if the former, but new restaurants would prefer induction if infra allowed
I only used induction burners for heating cream to make custard. For careful control of temperature they are great. Wouldn’t use them to saute though
Oh! I’ve heard different reports and noticed I need to make very few accommodations, mostly cutting my lazy bullshit. I’m kind of interested in this.
I mean, when all the gas burners would in use, I would use our portable induction burner for other things like boiling pasta or whatever but for things requiring precise temperature control I started avoiding the gas stoves.
I can tell you’re a genuine line cook, wanna give this one an edit pass later?
And that would obviously be too much of burden for the betterment of things. Small changes but unfortunately dismissed as not a silver bullet.
The video of the stove setup seems great till they get to the part that you have to connect your stove to WiFi and pair it with their phone app. This means I’m never buying the Charlie stove.
If it was just a standard Matter device, I’d be fine with it. But fuck one off apps for smart devices. They are always shitty, and always get neglected or abandoned.
I would be so pissed if my landlord took away my gas stove. Energy efficency? Really? Seems like busy work as if 100 other things wouldn’t be better. You know what’s nice about gas? It works when the power doesn’t. Pricks.
Induction is better for both the global and indoor environment. In some countries landlords aren’t allowed to install gas appliances anymore because of the long term effects on the tenants’ lungs.
Could always have a camping stove for the rare power outage.
Made the switch a year ago and I couldn’t be happier. Induction cooking is really really nice.
There are some pros and cons like better for environment and health but also some people might think more about electricity being more expensive. Although, because if how efficient induction stoves are, it might be closer than I thought
Electricity could be more expensive per unit, but it also doesn’t generally have minimum amounts for delivery to keep the stove functioning, at least, so it’s a bit of a trade off. I remember growing up, we just stopped using the stove and oven and did everything on the grill, year round, because the company that served our area for cooking gas wouldn’t make a delivery for less than $200 worth of fuel. $200 was way more than my parents had to spare for it at the time, and also like pre-paying for 9-10 months at a time, versus month to month with the electricity bill.
This is important for those replacing gas or propane stoves and don’t want to add the cost of running a 240V line that most resistance and induction ovens require.
OK this makes sense. It answers my WTF reaction at the thought of a battery-backed range.
Ditto. I wonder if it could be more of a big capacitor, or if it is.
Seems to be LFP pack. Safe and long-lasting.
Still doesn’t make much sense, though.
Induction stoves are $1000. 5kwh of batteries are $500, retailing around $2000 in the form of a power station. So, let’s call it $3000 total. The Copper Charlie goes for $6000. That extra $3000 is enough to have a 240v circuit installed by an electrician.
For real? In Europe one can get induction for less than €200. Significantly less. And a “real”, full size one, 4 spots.
I got one for 35€
I think you’re comparing the price of a cooktop to a cooktop/oven.
You’re right, I’ve updated my post.
To answer your question, induction stoves are a premium product in the US. Only newer houses are wired for it, and they’re more likely to be configured for separate cooktops and ovens. So there’s not much available on the low end. If you’re on a tight budget, you’d want gas, which is far cheaper to run, and gas stoves start around $300.
For comparison, in Australia, gas and induction are at price parity (a budget 4-hotplate setup costs about $200-300 either way). You can buy a single-plate induction cooker for $50 that plugs into the wall and has a temperature configurable from 60-200 C.
Edit: Stopped markdown converting Centigrate to Copyright symbol
PS: Also, electricity is cheaper than gas in Australia, because we have so much rooftop solar, electricity is soon going to be free during the midday peak.
I also see those batteries going bad and complications in the future with such a convuluted system.
What makes it seem convoluted? It’s slightly more complex than a standard electric stove, but we have and use countless devices on a daily basis with this technology. Very rarely do they have any issues with the charging/discharge circuit.
Yes, the batteries will eventually need to be replaced, and it could be an issue during Thanksgiving (etc) when a ton of power is needed all at once. But I really think you’re overestimating the usage it will get.
In any event, this is why they’re running it as a pilot. Any real-world issues will come to light before a larger rollout.
Has the text changed? I can’t find any reference to 240v
I think this is the new section?
The winning submission came from Copper, a California-based company which designed a battery-equipped induction stove that plugs into a standard 120-volt outlet. That means the units can be used in existing NYCHA kitchens without the need for major electrical upgrades.
What’s so hard about 240v since it takes a thinner wire compared to 110v?
North American 240v is different from the rest of the world. You use single phase, we use split phase, which means our 240v has two hot wires instead of one. To retrofit a 240v circuit in, we need to run a new cable with an additional hot wire from the breaker box to the kitchen, a new set of breakers, and a new socket.
For new construction, nothing.
For existing construction, it requires you to run a new circuit.
So they are replacing gas stoves because of pollution (article notes it), but adding a bunch of wildly over-priced e-waste (WiFi stove? GTFOOH), adding random fire risk (Lithium-Ion batteries are notorious for this), and doing so at tax payer expense. Nice.
I feel like the $60M (plus labor/install costs) they will spend on these stoves for 10K homes would probably do a good deal of fixing whatever the reliability issues are, in the current gas environment, without wapping 10K stoves. We all know it’s not "for the environment), it’s “who knows someone on the board at that startup selling these stoves”.
fire risk
Some I checked are using LFP batteries. LFP aren’t a fire hazard. Not sure if all of the stoves use LFP but I’d say it’s likely. Using non-LFP is significantly more expensive and they die much quicker.
Fuck the WiFi.
LFP batteries are safer than NMC. But LFP batteries can still catch fire, explode. They can’t be extinguished with water. They produce very toxic gasses. In the event of a structure fire, they remain in place, while a building’s gas supply can be turned off.
Right now everyone is installing enormous batteries everywhere with little concern for fire hazard. My suspicion is that as the number of fires, and death toll, climbs, we’re going to see increasingly strict regulations on large batteries, ultimately outlawing everything from power stations to electric cars from multi-unit residential buildings.
There’s an unspoken racial element to the removal of gas stoves.
If you need to cook with a wok for 15 minutes or char some peppers, you’re destroying the environment. But if you need to run an electric oven for an hour to bake a pie or casserole and create 10x the carbon footprint, you’re saving the environment.
And no, woks don’t work as well on induction, unless you have those spherical induction stoves that aren’t available outside of China. And an oven broiler is no where as good for charring peppers.
Why do people act like not using a gas powered stove is akin to stripping away some fundamental right?
I grew up in a part of the world where electric stoves are the vast vast majority and have been since the introduction of electricity. We cook just fine. Chill.
Wanna know where this cruel, backwards part of the world is? It’s fucking Tennessee.
Theyre replacing a bunch of low-end gas stoves that couldn’t do the kind of heat that people use for a that kind of wok cooking anyways.
This isn’t just about saving the environment, but sure. There’s also the public health element of removing a major source of indoor air pollution that’s detrimental to the residents of these units. These units aren’t equipped with range hoods that can adequately ventilate the space, even if they’re being used every time someone cooks.
I had no problem buying a portable induction wok “burner” outside of China; they were literally $50 USD at our local Costco a few weeks ago and that was including the kinda-cheap-but-more-than-adequate stamped carbon steel wok. I didn’t even go looking for it and it found me. I’ve also had no problems charring peppers, onions, or ginger by just placing a pan over the stove element and sticking them on the pan when it’s hot.
So? If you can’t figure out how to adapt your cooking methods to other hardware, that’s a skill issue.
Did you know that NYC has a ban on using coal for cooking indoors? Except that there’s a carve out for pizzerias that already had coal fired pizza ovens. New Yorkers are crazy and I just eat pizza in NJ. I ain’t eating coal pizza.
That’s a fair amount of backup battery and inverter power to run a stove, too. Awesome that that’s cheap enough to install en masse.
